Coffee in China: A Personal Perspective

Coffee in China: A Personal Perspective

Janpha Thadphoothon

I notice that after spending almost a month here in Tianjin, China, my initial observations about the beverage landscape have crystallized into something much deeper than a simple preference for caffeine. I am sure you would agree with me that a country's choice of drink is often a mirror of its soul, and in China, we are witnessing a fascinating collision between the ancient and the hyper-modern.

As we know, tea has been the bedrock of Chinese social and philosophical life for millennia. It is well known that the tea ceremony is not just about thirst; it is about mindfulness, hierarchy, and a connection to the land. In my opinion, tea represents the "slow" move of Chinese culture—the side that values contemplation and tradition.

Based on the first impression, however, one might think that coffee is taking over. The news has it that China now boasts more branded coffee outlets than the United States. According to the media, local giants like Luckin Coffee have transformed the urban landscape. I think this represents the "fast" move—a symbol of China’s relentless drive toward urbanization and global integration.

The 100% Coffee Challenge

I must admit that as someone who has lived and worked in Bangkok, the transition has been a bit of a shock to my system. In Thailand, for example, coffee has transitioned from a simple morning pick-me-up to a lifestyle staple. As a language teacher, I often observe my students in Bangkok "cafe hopping," seeking out 100% black coffee from local specialty beans grown in Chiang Rai or Nan. What we all know and agree upon in Thailand is that "coffee" usually means the pure, unadulterated bean.

Nevertheless, it is my belief that (though I could be wrong) the experience is quite different here in China. I notice that when I walk into a convenient store or a mall in Tianjin, it is surprisingly hard for me to buy 100% coffee. I guess it is because the Chinese palate, rooted in the delicate and often floral notes of tea, finds the bitterness of pure black coffee somewhat jarring. People say that in China, coffee is often treated more like a dessert or a functional "energy milk" than a beverage to be appreciated for its roast profile.

Fundamentally, it is all about localization. Experts say that for a product to succeed in the Chinese market, it must adapt to local tastes. I am not an expert, but I have read somewhere that many of the most successful "coffee" drinks in China are actually 70% milk and sugar. I am not sure but I suspect that for many locals, the "idea" of coffee—the modern, cosmopolitan image—is more important than the actual taste of the espresso.

A Tale of Two Cultures

You may wish to picture this scenario: On one corner of a Tianjin street, you have a traditional tea house where elders sit for hours, engaging in the "slow" move of tradition. On the other corner, you have a Luckin Coffee where office workers engage in the "fast" move, grabbing a "Cheese Foam Latte" via a QR code without saying a word to the barista.

I'd like to entertain you with the idea that we are witnessing the birth of a hybrid. What's more interesting is that many shops are now selling "Tea-Coffee," blending Oolong or Jasmine with espresso. Some argue for this as a brilliant innovation; some argue against it as a dilution of both cultures. My gut tells me that this is the future of ELT 4.0 and global commerce—the "and" instead of the "or."

Let's be a bit more scientific. If we look at the data from Thailand, total consumption volume has increased by 30% since 2020. Thais are becoming more educated about roast profiles. Globally, the trend is toward "specialty." But in China, the trend is toward "creativity." I somehow think that while I struggle to find my 100% black coffee in a Tianjin mall, I am actually witnessing a more complex cultural translation.

The Professional Perspective

As a language teacher, I see parallels between this and how we teach English. Those were the days when everything was simple, and we taught "Standard English." But today, let me introduce you to the notion of "Local Englishes" or "ELT 4.0." Just as coffee is being re-interpreted in China to fit a tea-loving culture, English is being re-interpreted to fit local contexts.

Make no mistake, the world moves on. The past is the past, and while those were the good old days for some when coffee was just coffee and tea was just tea, like it or not, the fusion is here to stay. And then ultimately, we must adapt.

Indeed, I still find myself searching for that 100% black coffee. I notice my own bias—my "Thai" expectation of what a coffee shop should be. Gradually, I am learning to appreciate the "Cheese Latte" for what it is: a sign of a culture in rapid transition.

Fundamentally, I would argue that my struggle to find "pure" coffee is not a failure of the Chinese market, but a testament to the strength of their traditional tea culture. Wisdom from the past hints that you cannot pour new wine into old bottles without some adjustment. In China, they are not just drinking coffee; they are "tea-ifying" it.

Nevertheless, it is my long-held belief that there is room for both. No one knows everything, but I would like to suggest that as China's coffee market matures, the "pure" coffee I crave will eventually find its place. The news has it that specialty boutiques are already popping up in the quieter alleys of Tianjin. What's more, as the younger generation travels more, their palates will likely diversify.

I know you would agree with me that the journey of discovery is often more rewarding than the destination. It has perplexed me why it’s so hard to find a simple Americano in a mall, but having said that, I realize that this perplexity is exactly why I am here as a visiting professor. To observe, to learn, and to bridge these cultural gaps.

I could be wrong, but I believe that in a few years, the "two moves" of tea and coffee will no longer be seen as opposites. Accordingly, we will see a China that is as comfortable with a dark roast as it is with a light green tea. That's not all—this fusion will likely export itself back to Thailand and the rest of the world.

In my opinion, the "move" of coffee in China is one of the most exciting cultural shifts of our decade. I like the idea of being a witness to it, even if it means I have to look a little harder for my morning brew. First of all, we must observe. And then ultimately, we must understand.

However challenging, I determine to make it clear that whether it's 100% black coffee or a Jasmine Latte, the act of sharing a drink remains the ultimate intercultural bridge. As a matter of fact, maybe tomorrow I’ll stop looking for what I know and try what is new. Somehow I think it is the only way to truly live the "ELT 4.0" life.

My conviction is that the best is yet to come for both tea and coffee lovers in this vast, changing land. I am sure you would agree with me that a good cup of anything is better when shared with a new friend in a new city. As the saying goes, "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step"—or in my case, a single sip.